Housing

Probably long before you ever got your rabbit you had made a decision as to whether she was going to live inside, outside or a mixture of both. Which one you choose will determine certain things about your rabbit’s home/hutch. More on setting up rabbit houses…

Diet

The diet you choose to feed your rabbit is absolutely essential in caring for your rabbit. Most people feed their rabbit pre-packaged pellets but this isn’t necessarily the best diet. Find out what do rabbits eat…

Health

When it comes to health rabbits can be quite delicate. And, despite being a common animal all over the world, vet care for rabbits is still very specialized. It is essential that you take particular care when choosing a vet to care for your precious bun. It is important that you also learn up on rabbit diseases and illnesses so that you can spot the signs of a sick bunny. Find out more on rabbit illnesses…

Exercise

Just like humans rabbits need to exercise every day. Your bun will need at least an hour a day out of her cage to roam freely. If that is inside your house will need to be bunny proofed. If it’s outside take extra special care that she can’t escape during her daily romp or that predators can’t get to her.

Training

Proper training can be the difference between your bunny living a long and happy life with you or ending up at the bunny shelter. If that sounds dramatic, remember that the biggest reasons bunnies are left at shelters are chewing and litter training problems.

Rabbits can be trained to do simple tricks but the biggest things owners have problems with are training their bunny not to chew inappropriate things (wires, furniture, carpet etc) and litter training.  If you are having trouble with either of these I strongly recommend you have a look at this rabbit care guide as both of these topics – and solutions – are covered in detail.

Grooming

Grooming your bun consists of brushing, nail clipping and a general examination of your bun. Rabbits do not like baths nor do they need them. Spot washing with a damp cloth is the best way to remove any excessive dirt.

All rabbits need regular brushing to remove loose hair but long haired rabbits, such as Angora’s will need daily brushing to keep their coats tangle free and in top condition.

Fun/Play

Rabbits absolutely love to play and it is essential for your bunny’s emotional health and happiness. It is also a wonderful chance to bond with your bunny. Rabbits love toys and they don’t have to be expensive to make. Have a look at our list of toys for rabbits

More Information on Caring for Rabbits

The subject of pet rabbit care is HUGE and this article can only scratch the surface. If you are serious about knowing the latest and best information on caring for your precious bun I recommend you take a peek at this amazing rabbit care ‘bible’ here.

What are the Benefits to Rabbit Neutering?

• The most obvious benefit to having your rabbit neutered (or spayed) is that he or she can’t reproduce. The phrase ‘breed like rabbits’ is very true – rabbits are prolific breeders and can have a litter of at least a dozen young (kits) every month. Bunny shelters and rescue homes are already overflowing with unwanted bunnies so please don’t add to the problem.
• Your bunny will be healthier and live longer – Spayed female rabbits have almost no risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian etc) which are very high in unspayed female rabbits. Your male bunny will be a lot less territorial and aggressive.
• Altered (ie: neutered or spayed) rabbits are calmer and more companionable after their urge to mate has been removed. Rabbits like to live together so they will make much better bunny companions as well.
• Litter training will be a breeze – unneutered male rabbits spray (as well as some females) This will reduce dramatically or become nonexistent after de-sexing, making litter training a whole lot easier.

What Age Can My Rabbit Be Neutered?

• As a guide rabbits can be neutered or spayed when they become sexually mature – around 4 months for females and as soon as the testicles descend in a male bunny, usually around 3 1/2 months.
• However many vets prefer to wait a little longer than this – to around 6 months for females and 5 months for males. Always keep your bunnies separated while you are waiting for the operation. The time of sexual maturity will vary and many an owner has been caught out with unwanted bunny babies on their hands!

What Does Rabbit Neutering Cost?

• It is usually more expensive to neuter a female rabbit and costs will vary depending on your vet. Low end could be $50-$75 while high end prices in cities could be a few hundred dollars.  Ring around to check prices as they will vary from vet to vet. Your local rabbit rescue/shelter may be a good place to start for a recommendation on an experienced yet reasonably priced vet.
• Make sure you check that your vet is experienced in de-sexing rabbits. Rabbits are still classed as ‘exotics’, their vet care is not the same as for a cat or dog. Many vets may not have had experience in operating on them so choose carefully.

Yes, the cost of neutering a rabbit can seem high however we feel neutering a rabbit is a part of responsible bunny ownership. Let’s clear those shelters of unwanted bunnies and give every bun the loving home she deserves.

Can rabbits eat asparagus?

Yes, in small amounts. Asparagus is a relatively low in calcium so good for rabbits on reduced calcium intake.

Can rabbits eat broccoli?

Yes, leaves, heads and stems but small quantities only. It is a great source of vitamin A but some bunnies can find broccoli to be a bit gassy. Watch for diarrohea.

Can rabbits eat cabbage?

Yes. Cabbage is a good vegetable to try if your bun needs to reduce calcium in her diet. Watch for diarrhoea as cabbage can be gassy for some buns.

Can rabbits eat carrots?

Yes, carrot tops are fantastic for your bun (be careful they haven’t been sprayed though). Most rabbits love the carrot itself too but be very careful with quantities here as carrot is high in sugars. Max for a bun is 1 tablespoon per 3lb.

Can rabbits eat cauliflower?

Yes, in small amounts. Cauliflower is low in calcium so good if you are trying to reduce your bun’s calcium intake.

Can rabbits eat celery?

Yes, but always chop it in small (1 inch) pieces. This ensures long stringy fibres can’t get caught in your bun’s tummy.

Can rabbits eat cucumber?

Yes, but it is high in water content (like Iceberg lettuce) and may produce diarrhoea. There are better vegetable choices you can give your bun.

Can rabbits eat fruit?

Yes, apples, pineapple, bananas, melon, papaya, peaches, plums, strawberries, raspberries, oranges are all good for your bun. Fruits are high in sugars so these are treats only. Feed maximum 1 tablespoon of fruit per day per 3lb weight. Never feed fruit seeds as these can be toxic.

Can rabbits eat lettuce?

Yes, the dark-leafed varieties. Stay away from the light varieties like Iceberg as these can cause gas and/or diarrhoea.

Can rabbits eat mushrooms?

No. There are many varieties of mushrooms and some may be harmful so it’s best to steer clear of all mushrooms for your rabbit.

Can rabbits eat onions?

No, these are toxic to your bun.

Can rabbits eat peas?

Yes but they aren’t the best choice for your bun. Peas are high in sugar and starch. Flat pea pods are a better choice.

Can rabbits eat potatoes?

No, raw potatoes may be toxic to your rabbit.

Can rabbits eat spinach?

Yes. However, while spinach is high in Vitamin A it is also high in oxalates which are not good for your rabbit long term. Limit to once a week.

Can rabbits eat squash?

Yes, in small amounts.

Can rabbits eat tomatoes?

Yes, but only red and in small amounts.

So, what are rabbit mites?

Mites are a very diverse group of arachnids (closely related to spiders and scorpions) which feed on plants, animals, mould and dirt. In rabbits they live and breed in the ears, skin and fur. The two most common types found in bunnies are ear mites (Cpsoroptes cuniculi) and fur mites (usually Cheyletiella parasitovorax in the US)

Ear Mites

Symptoms

• Reddish brown crusting in the ear canal
• Scratching of ears
• Shaking of head
• One or both ears may droop (hard to detect in a lop-eared bun!)
• Mites are sometimes visible amongst the crusting.
• Mites may also be present on other parts of the body most commonly just above the tail.

Treatment

• Both the rabbit and her environment must be treated.
• Treat with mineral oil or miticides for cats or dogs. Always check with your vet that the miticide is safe for your bun.
• Ivermectin (either orally or injection) is also traditionally used to control ear mites however recently applications of Revolution product (active ingredient selamectin) have been found to be safe and effective. See below for correct dosage for Revolution for rabbits.
  
• NB: NEVER use Frontline as this contains a chemical which is toxic to your bunny.
• It is recommended to leave the crusty scabs in the ears to fall out naturally as removing them is extremely painful for your bun.
• Thoroughly clean and scrub all areas of your bun’s cage and immediate environment.

Fur Mites (Walking Dandruff)

Symptoms

• Dandruff in fur (these mites are also known as walking dandruff but this is actual dandruff)
• Patchy fur loss (differs from normal shedding which tends to be evenly distributed)
• Dermatitis
• Scratching
• Sores or scabs on the neck and back of head

Treatment

• Ivermectin (either orally or injection) is also traditionally used to control fur mites however as with ear mites, Revolution (active ingredient selamectin) has been found to be safe and effective. See below for correct dosage for Revolution for rabbits.
  
• NB: NEVER use Frontline as this contains a chemical which is toxic to your bunny.
• As with ear mites, both the rabbit and her environment must be treated.
• Thoroughly clean and scrub all areas of your bun’s cage and immediate environment.

NB:  This advice is general only and as with any medical condition please see your vet if you suspect your bun has mites.

Revolution Dosage for Rabbits

• Revolution comes in two concentrations – 120mg/ml and 60mg/ml
• 120mg/ml is for average to large dogs and 60mg/ml is for smaller dogs, puppies, cats and kittens.
• They are the same product just different concentrations.
• Either can be used for your rabbit, you just need to know the concentration you are working with and the weight of your rabbit.
• Revolution is usually dosed at 6mg/kg.

Step 1: Weigh your rabbit.

Step 2: Determine whether you have the 120 or 60 mg/ml product. This will be printed on the packet.

Step 3: Use the chart below to determine the correct amount of Revolution for your bun’s weight.

Step 4: Use a 1cc syringe from your vet (no needle) to draw up the correct amount and squirt it gently onto the back of your bun’s neck.

Note: Small syringes measure in units of cubic centimeters (cc). A cubic centimeter (cc) is the same as a milliliter (ml).

Step 5: Repeat in 2-4 weeks

Example

• Crumbles weighs 5.5lb and her owner has a packet of Revolution at 120mg/ml concentration. Her weight in kg is 2.5kg (5.5lb = 2.5kg)
• At 2.5 kg weight, Crumbles needs 0.125cc (ml) of Revolution at 120mg/ml concentration. That’s just 1/8th of a milliliter!

Your bun’s teeth are a very specialized piece of bunny equipment:

• There are 4 upper incisors – two at the front and two hidden teeth (called peg teeth) at the back of these.
• When a rabbit’s mouth is closed, the upper incisors should barely reach over the lower ones, and the lower ones should just meet with the peg teeth at the back. This creates a ‘scissor’ effect when a rabbit chews.
• The back of top teeth and the front of the bottom teeth are both soft so as the rabbit chews it grinds both sets of teeth down.

When they are misaligned the teeth can’t wear away naturally so just keep growing. The top incisors grow inwards towards the mouth and the bottom ones grow outwards like elephant tusks. This is painful and serious as it could stop your bun from eating.

Causes of Malocclusion

Malocclusion in rabbits is either inherited (hereditary) or acquired.

Inherited malocclusion is more likely to happen with dwarf breeds of rabbits. They have been bred with small heads so the rabbit’s teeth may not sit correctly in their small jaw.

Acquired malocclusion happens when teeth aren’t ground down over time, or an accident, or even excessive pulling on the wire of their cage, changes the alignment of the incisors.

Symptoms of Malocclusion

The most obvious symptom is overgrown teeth but where this isn’t obvious or hasn’t been picked up the following symptoms can also point to malocclusion:

• Abbesses in the mouth or jaw
• Drooling – this can also lead to dermatitis on the chin and chest which becomes itchy and can lead to fur pulling (see below)
• Fur pulling – this can also be a symptom of a number of other things as well but the most common cause (assuming your bun isn’t pregnant as does pull fur for their nesting boxes) is malocclusion.
• A swollen jaw
• Pawing at the mouth
• Sudden drop in weight (due to bun not being able to eat)

Treatment of Malocclusion

Rabbit malocclusion is definitely treatable but is not a condition you can just forget about. If left untreated it can be extremely dangerous for your bunny as it can prevent them from eating. Rabbits need a continual supply of roughage through their digestive system to keep everything working smoothly and misaligned teeth stop your bun from chewing ie: eating! Even 1-2 days of not eating is serious.

If you suspect your rabbit’s teeth are misaligned then get to a vet immediately. They will treat the problem immediately and can show you how you can correctly trim the teeth on an ongoing basis.

Rabbit malocclusion is serious and MUST be treated.

Some breeders believe that rabbits with malocclusion should be euthanized. As an hereditary condition we can understand not wanting to breed from a rabbit that has this condition from birth but to euthanize an otherwise healthy pet bunny with a treatable condition we believe is unwarranted.

If you have a bun with this condition you’ll just have to pay very careful attention to her teeth and mouth, provide lots of things to chew in addition to her hay (apple branches, chew sticks etc) plus watch her weight carefully. In severe cases surgery to remove the teeth may be an option but this is an extreme measure.

Owning a bun with rabbit malocclusion is not all bad. Yes, you may need 4-6 weekly visits to the vet for a quick teeth trim and will need to be extra vigilant about her teeth and mouth care but we think that’s a small price to pay for your beloved bun.

Email abbey (at ) rabbitsforpets (dot ) com with your pictures attached.

Here are some photos that I have collected or have already been sent in. Enjoy!

Click on an image to enlarge:

Step 1

Pick the right cage/hutch

• It needs to be large enough for your rabbit to stretch and turn around easily after you have added a nesting spot (bed), litter pan and food and water dishes.
• The bottom of the cage needs to be easily cleaned. Wire is ok but needs to be covered with cardboard or a piece of untreated pine wood so that it does not damage the soft pads of your rabbit. General purpose plastic is also a no-no as your rabbit will most likely chew right through.
• Most commercial rabbit cages are fairly utilitarian looking so think outside the box when looking for a cage – a cat pen or guinea pig cage may be just as suitable.
• Where you place the cage is very important. Place it where the rabbit can see what is going on with the family but is not in direct traffic. Ensure it is away from direct heat (fire, heaters etc) cold drafts and noise, such as the stereo or TV.

Step 2

Where’s the Bathroom? – Add a litter box/pan

• We have found the high sided, corner variety is the best to use as rabbits urinate horizontally rather than downwards!
• Rabbits naturally seem to like to go to the toilet in corners and tend to prefer one particular corner. If she seems to prefer a certain corner, move her litter box to that one.
• Good choices for litter material are those made from aspen bark, newspapers (but these don’t control odors very well) or hay.
• Always avoid the following:  pine and cedar shavings as they release aromatic phenols which could harm your rabbit’s respiratory system and cat litter as some brands can be toxic to your rabbit.

Step 3

Bedtime – Add a nesting box

• Although there are many nesting/bedding boxes available commercially this can be as simple as a cardboard box with a hole cut in each end and filled with fresh hay. Rabbits love to burrow and snuggle in dark corners and this will keep her feeling safe. It is important that there are two exits. As a prey species, your bunny likes to have an escape route!
• Hay keeps your precious rabbit warm as well as being great to munch on. And who doesn’t like breakfast in bed?!

Step 4

Dinner time – Food & water bowls

• The best food bowls are heavy crockery or metal with a wider base as they stop your rabbit tipping them over. And we all know how much rabbits LOVE to try to tip their bowls over!
• You’ll also need either another bowl for water or a bottle attached to the side of the cage. Bottles are a lot cleaner (your bun can’t bathe in it for one)! However some rabbits take a while to adjust to a bottle if they haven’t used one before. ALWAYS have an alternative supply of water in a bowl until she gets used to using the bottle.

Step 5

Work Hard, Play Hard – Add some toys

• Bunnies love to play so add some rabbit-safe toys to her house. They don’t need to be store bought – old phone directories are a favourite (remove the shiny cover) or even a tissue box stuffed with hay can be entertaining for your bun. This one is only limited by your imagination!
• If you do want to buy some toys, certain cat toys like those little balls with a bell inside can also be suitable. Ensure you first remove anything that could be chewed off like eyes, buttons etc.

So, there you are. The perfect rabbit home in 5 easy steps.

Bunnywood – famous Hollywood Bunny Names

Girls – Tyra, Madonna, Scarlett, Rene, Britney, Charlize, Keira, Tori, Drew, Gwyneth, Selma
Boys – Ozzy, Brad, Heath, Keanu, Pierce, Vince, Al, Jude, Ewen, Harrison, Ralph, Leonardo, Orlando

Good Enough To Eat!

Oreo, Biscuit, Cookie, Caramel, Cornflake, Snickers, Salty, Pepper, Olive, Brandy, Brownie, OJ (Orange Juice), Butter, Pancake, Toffee, Twinkie, Ginger, Peanut, Chocolate, Honey, Coco, Pudding, Cappuccino, Marmalade, Muffin

Famous Chefs

Girls – Nigella, Julia, Delia, Fanny
Boys – Jamie, Heston, Gordon, Jacques, Marco, Raymond

Bunny Star Galactia – Out of this world bunny names

Orion, Pluto, Mars, Venus, Jupiter, Gemini, Neptune

15 Minutes of Fame – Famous Rabbits

Jessica Rabbit, Roger Rabbit, Velveteen Rabbit, Peter Rabbit, Bugs Bunny, Thumper, Br’er Rabbit, Roger the Rabbit, Peter Cottontail, Easter bunny, White rabbit (Alice in Wonderland), Cadbury bunny, Nesquik bunny, Energizer Bunny

Presidents of the United States of Bunnies

Obama, Calvin, Dwight, Grover, Chester, Franklin, Herbert, Harry, Ronald, Lyndon, Theodore, Ulysses, Millard, George, Bill

And they called it Bunny Love – famous couples for bunny pairs

Romeo & Juliet, Adam & Eve, Sonny & Cher, Brad & Ange (or Brad & Jen depending on what camp you’re in!), John & Yoko, Diana & Dodi, Elizabeth & Richard, Scarlett & Rhett, Elizabeth & Darcy, Napoleon and Josephine, Edward & Mrs Simpson, Lancelot and Guinevere, Posh & Becks

Floral names

Daisy, Lily, Poppy, Sweet Pea, Jasmine, Rose, Buttercup, Petunia, Dahlia, Ivy, Pansy, Blossom.

And finally, some plain old fashioned cute bunny ones:

Snuffles, Fluffy, Snuggle, Munchkin, Snuggle Bun, Pixie, Smudge, Cuddles, Baby, Snowflake, Mittens, Fluffy Wabbit, Boots and Squeakle.

I hope this list of bunny names has given you a little bit of inspiration to help you pick the perfect name for your rabbit!

Before we start it’s important to point out that not all vets can provide specialist rabbit care. As soon as you get your new pet it is imperative you find a suitable veterinarian then. Don’t wait until your rabbit is ill before you try to find one. Ask friends or club members for recommendations (the House Rabbit Society is a good place to start)  or try asking in online forums for vets in your area.

Heatstroke

Rabbits are very susceptible to heat, and it does not even need to be excessive to cause heat exhaustion. Symptoms are excessive lethergy, panting, floppiness and raised body temperature (normal is between 101 and 102 degrees F) This can be fatal for your rabbit and it is very important not to waste time if you are the slightest bit concerned he may be affected. Get to a vet immediately.

Diarrhea

Diarrhea is not a disease but a symptom of something troubling your rabbit inside. It could be a change in diet or something more serious depending on the level of diarrhea. This one needs vet attention too

Head Tilt

Also known as wry neck, head tilt is a neurological problem that needs immediate attention. You will notice your bunny’s head tilting to the side. Head tilt can be caused by a number of reasons – inner or middle ear infection, bump to the head, stroke, brain tumour or abscess and/or parasitic infection.  It is curable in many cases but act fast and get to that vet immediately!

Obesity

Yes, this is definitely an illness and sadly one of the more common ones. Being an overweight bunny places him at increased risk for other diseases so it is important that you take action immediately. If you’re feeding pellets and your bunny isn’t getting out and about of his cage for a minimum of two hours to run free and exercise then he could start packing on those pounds! Cut back on the pellets and increase free-feeding of hay. It is high in fibre and low in calories so great for the battle of the bulging bunny. Watch his treats too – even fruits and vegetables high in natural sugars such as apples and carrots can add to the problem if overfed.

Dental Problems

As you know, your rabbit loves to chew, chew, chew! Nature designed rabbits to chew tough, fibrous plants to ensure they get enough roughage in their diet so it is vital their teeth stay in tip top condition. Unfortunately dental problems in pet rabbits are common and may be the result of feeding a diet of pallets and not having enough daily chewing material. If your rabbit seems reluctant to chew, or is salivating excessively it may be a sign of dental problems and it’s time to get them checked out.

A final word

Rabbits can’t tell you they are ill and will often suffer in silence. Overall rabbits are bright, curious and playful creatures so if your rabbit seems lethargic, is off her food and/or generally not her usual self she may be sick. Please seek your vet’s advice as soon as possible.

Rabbits can have one of four different types of fur – normal, satin, rex, and fancy/wool. Each has its own characteristics and pros and cons:

Normal

It stands to reason that this is the most common type. This type of fur has two layers – a soft, fine under fur and thicker, heavier guard hairs. In addition normal fur is then broken into two sub groups – flyback or rollback fur. If you pet a normal rabbit in the wrong direction (tail to head) flyback fur will snap back into place. Rollback will return to its correct position at a more leisurely pace!

Out of the 47 breeds recognised breeds by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) 36 have normal fur. While that may be a little too common for some, the big plus is that they require a lot less grooming than other fur types do so make good family pets.

In this group you’ll find most of the very popular breeds:  Holland Lops, Mini Lop, Netherland Dwarf, American, New Zealand, Flemish Giant etc.

Satin

Satin fur is characterised by its uniquely glossy, glass like appearance. This occurs because satins’ fur differs to normal fur in two key ways. Firstly it is more transparent than normal fur and secondly it has a finer diameter of hair shaft. Together these combine to create a coat sheen which ARBA describes as ‘distinct, glossy, and lustrous.’

Satins and Mini Satins fall into this group

Rex

The rex fur type is unique in that the tougher guard hairs are  shorter than the soft under hairs making the overall feel of the fur extremely soft, velvety and sponge-like. Think of 1/2 – 7/8 of an inch of amazing softness like dense, thick velvet! In fact this fur type is also known as Velveteen for obvious reasons. Some breeders are able to ‘imprint’ their show rexes which means if you press your hand to its back then remove it there will be a handprint left behind.

The only breeds you’ll find with rex fur are (not surprisingly) the (Standard) Rex and Mini Rex.

Fancy / Wool

This type is also known as Angora. Fur from a fancy or wool type stands away from its body giving it a fluffy, ‘just been under the hairdryer’ appearance!

The wool can range from short and coarse, in the American Fuzzy Lop to dense and silky in the English Angora. Along with guard hairs and under wool, the Giant Angora has a third layer to its coat called awl fluff which are crinkly fibres ending with a straight tip. These give the Giant Angora a denser coat.

While they are stunning fur type to look at they are not for the faint hearted. Minimum grooming of two times a week is required to keep them looking good but to also ensure loose, moulting hair doesn’t get ingested by the rabbit which could block its digestive tract and cause serious harm or even death if your bunny does not have enough fibre in his diet.

The adorable Angoras (English, French, Satin and Giant), American Fuzzy Lop and Jersey Wooly breeds fit in here.